Jade

“We choose to go to the moon because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend to win, and the others, too.”

 

John F. Kennedy

 

 

 

1964, five years earlier than the first man step on the moon, an ex-pilot and engineer formed by a ten years work for the Cristóbal Balenciaga fashion house take women in the space.

Short-skirt, hyper-structured minidress, geometric volumes, metallic color, vynil fabric were on the runway:  André Courrèges introduced the Space Age that will reach the peak on 1969 ( the same age of the Amstong' moon landing).

With his high profile clothes  Courrèges aim was synthesize Desing, Architetture and Fashion in a single unit, in addition, making a collection enriched by pants outfit and flat shoes, he wanted become a speaker for the women rights: “ On the emancipation and future road you walk with low heels” he claimed. Stars like  Romy Schneider, Françoise Hardy and Catherine Deneuve could not resist to the magnetism of this brand new fashion. Women who chose Courrèges are realised by corsets and stiff bras and wear platic garments enlightened by fluo colors.

On that period space fever was grewing also thaks to movies like 2001: a Space Odissey by Stanley Kubrick and to space inspired furniture objects designed by the most important names of the industrial scene like  Vitra, Gaetano Pesce and Vico Magistretti.

Anyway not evryone loved the mood created by the Basque designer, Coco Chanel for example said “those bundle up white garments” were “more suitable for two,three years old girls”.

In his space conquest of space Courregés was not alone, beside him  Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne that meanwhile was creating Barbarella, a style icon destinated to make the rules for years to come.

 

Time goes by and cyclically trends disappear to come back, but the Courregés style doesn't stop to be a reference.  90's were signed by the

gynoid couture” by  Thierry Mugler celebrating android women with his Fall/Winter 1995/96 Haute Couture collection. At the end of the decade “hardware bodysuits” modeling for the  Fall/Winter 1999-2000 Givenchy défilé. 2007 is the year of  Hussein Chalayan that sintroduce a woman from another planet, suspended between future and past, wearing metamorphic items that, strating from Victorian Age lines, came to life changhing their shapes.

Among the contemporary fashion designers influenced by the Space Age we could find Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs for their technical fabric love, but also brand like Moschino, Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens, Garreth Pugh, Margiela, Marques Almeida e Faith Connexion.

For the fall/winter 2017-18, almost 50 years later his spatial show, the  Courrèges concept is still fresh and undisputated fashion-system stars let charm their moodboard by the moonlights, it is the case of the Chanel collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld and of the Gucci Campaign in the Allesandro Michele's era.

 

Today Courrèges rebirth was driven by Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting,  two Metz ex-advertiser already on the top of Young&Rubicam. Following the imprint of their predecessor the two are not tire of repeating that “ without trend, fashion is much more than a trend!”